![]() ![]() The best advice I can give is, when you get to higher numbers of films through the chemicals, you proceed with caution and perhaps develop a single film and see the results before putting 3 or more films together in a tank. So I have to wonder if there’s a mistake in the Fuj info. After all, the film area of a 120 roll isn’t all that different from the film area of a 36 exposure film. First, these are the figures quoted by the manufacturer and I don’t have enough experience with the kit, using all the different combinations of film speed and size, to validate the manufacturer recommendations, It does seem strange to me that it should be possible to develop 72 35mm * 36 exposure ISO400 films but only 32 120 films at the same ISO. Hi Mark, You raise an interesting question. #Kodak c 41 chemicals plusPlus Boots won’t lose your film any more… Pull that trigger, you’ll be pleasantly surprised. ![]() If you’re in the habit of using a one-shot B&W developer such as Ilfosol, C41 development can actually be cheaper per roll too. Bear in mind that C41 was developed to give consistency when the film was developed by non-specialist staff, it’s a VERY robust process. I have developed Ilford XP2 black-and-white film alongside Kodak Portra at the same time in the same tank with no ill effects on either film. You can develop different films in the same tank. I would add that in some ways it is easier than B&W – there is only one standard developing regime and all C41 films work with it. Other than a heater, precision thermometer and possibly plastic box, if you already develop your own B&W you’ve got everything you need. My practice is to pour the developer when it reaches 38 and then switch off the heater. The much smaller thermal inertia of the home setup makes such precise control almost impossible, but I find that you can get away with anything between 36 and 40. Even then, the rather alarming 37.8 +/- 0.15 Celsius specification is a bit over-tight and is really for developing shops with large machines. Invest in an accurate thermometer that reads up to 50 Celsius. Once it does what you need it to, don’t touch it again.Īccurate temperature control is only needed for the developer, the subsequent stages work anywhere between 30 and 40 Celsius, although it does no harm and aids consistency to keep it all at or very close to the same temperature. Do some dummy runs until you get the setting on the heater right – markings are for (very) rough guidance only. I use a nine litre “Really Useful” box as my water bath, which also handily contains the bottles and Paterson tank for storage. I’ve started developing my own C41 at home using the Fuji kit and second Kevin’s statement that it isn’t hard. ![]() All the images below were shot at St Abbs Harbour on medium format Portra 400 in a Fujifilm GA645Zi, developed in the Fuji kit with a Jobo CPE-2 processor, and scanned on an Epson v700 with ICE dust-removal turned on, and polished in Adobe Lightroom. While I’m posting, I may as well show a few examples of images developed with these chemicals. So I distilled the main points, missed out the non-English language variants, and made my own table, which I thought I would publish here as a reference in case anyone else has the same problem. I’ve been quite happy with the results so far, although more time is needed to establish whether there are any advantages over the Digibase kit.Īnyway the point of this post is that I lost my copy of the instructions which were included in the kit I searched around the internet for a copy and couldn’t find an “official” source but did find a scanned copy, which was unfortunately a little difficult to read. I’ve recently started using the Fujifilm C-41 Film X-Press Kit to process my colour negative film, to replace the Digibase C41 kit I’d previously used. ![]()
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